Posted by: willtblog | February 24, 2011

So…

The DTC's - Can't Clear them.

The problem:

 

Since I bought my car, I’ve had these error codes and never been able to get rid of them. I don’t think that they have been a problem before I tried to do the throttle body alignment test, which failed on the VCDS software, and seeminly screwed up my car…

Time to buy a new throttle body. The Audi Stealership want $1,100 NZD + GST!

I can get one from ebay (Same part!) for $300 shipped here…

Untill then, Some pics of the throttle body:

Throttle Body

Inside, quite clean, not the reason for the error code.

Inside the throttle body - Nothing falls out :P

Posted by: willtblog | February 23, 2011

Update #15 Boost leak..?

So, After taking my car for a drive with the newly install 57i K&N Air Filter, there seems to be no boost active.. Just constant smooth accelleration all the way to red line, no power band as per say. I cannot confirm that this is the fault of the air filter, as I played with the vag-com cable, and tried to align the throttle body – which failed. This could have screwed it up..

Tomoz, or later today, after ive slept. I will check the boost lines for leaks and fix any, See if this fixes anything. If not, I’ll re-install the stock airbox and test it, see if the car goes back to the way it was. If not, Ill have to take out the throttle body and fix the Error Code: 17967 – Throttle Body (J338): Fault in basic settings (Which my car has had since I bought it..)

Ahhh.

UPDATE! 12:10pm 23/02/2011

Figured out that its the throtlle body. It’s not regestering WOT. Time to fix that :/

Posted by: willtblog | February 22, 2011

Mod #4 K&N 57i Induction Kit Install

I have recently purchased the K&N 57i Induction Kit for my car. It cost me $140 NZD (incl shipping) from an ebay reseller and also included a K&N Recharger Kit! (Valued at $12.99 USD!) Shipping was fast from the US took 4 days (over a weekend too!). Just shows how much NZ retailers mark up prices.. I was quoted $286 NZD + 4 weeks shipping from repco and $168 NZD + 3 weeks shipping from Auto One.

Anyway, Here are some pictures of the kit

The Boxes

The 57i Kit Contents

Recharge Kit Contents

When my engine has cooled down, I’ll install it, and update this post later today if all goes ok :P

So, It’s now later, and I’ve installed it. Took about an hour or two, I took it nice and slow making sure I didn’t screw up at all.

First you have to remove the covers off the stock airbox, untill you see this

You can see a heatsink (left) and the MAF (right)

Then just pull out the Heatsink, just a grommet fitting in there. And remove the metal guard you can see at the top of the picture, there are 4 screws that need to be undone (sorry about no picture!). Also unclip all the clips (4) around the top half of the airbox.

Once you have done this, the top half will almost be free….

Inside the top half of the airbox. MAF is located here.

Just remove the MAFs grommit from the top, and unclip the plug seen in the picture above, Then the top half will be free.

Bottom half + existing flat filter

Then unscrew the bolt seen at the bottom of the picture above that hold the bottom half in. When removed, the bottom will just pull out – that bolt is the only one holding it in.

Bottom half of stock air filter.

Stock air filter removed! Look at all the space!

K03 Turbo

As shown in the K&N 57i Install guide, attach the metal to the pipe as seen on Page 2, Photo D. http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/57-0282_inst.pdf using the plastic ties.

Then attach the MAF to the K&N filter, making sure you have the MAF the correct way around! (There’s an arrow on the maf, make sure it points the direction of airflow into the engine)

MAF Attached the wrong way!!! :P


Installed, just need to trim the plastic ties.

I didn’t go into too much detail about the bracket that hold the K&N Filter in place, the K&N instructions sheet that comes with the kit explains everything pretty well. Also can be found here http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/57-0282_inst.pdf

Now, on your mark, start you car and rev it. Sounds like a beast! Of course, sound is not the reason I bought this filter, apparently it helps with fuel economy!

Also, I didn’t install the piping that came with the 57i kit, I will make my own in the near future, I just want to see how it goes…

Engine Bay

Posted by: willtblog | February 17, 2011

Mod #3 Engine Start Button Install

So today I went to Jaycar and bought a couple of switches. One was a engine start button, and one was your standard push toggle button..

One of the main challenges to wire the Engine Start Button was to find out which wires to tap into from the ignition switch. I couldn’t find anything about installing the Engine Start Button in a 97 A4 anywhere, so had to experiment myself. After proding wires accross various red/black cables, I found the correct cobination to trigger the starter motor. The big black wire is the + and the red(black stripe) is ground. Odd, I know.

Ignition Switch Diagram

Where I tapped into the wires

Instead of messing around soldering the wires near the ignition switch, I followed the wires further up to a location with a little more room to play with. Just under the dashboard was perfect.

Soldered wires

Ready to connect to the button!

I then needed to mount the button somewhere. I decided that I was going to block in the useless cup holders next to the handbreak. I cut a piece of wood to fit, and coated it with an old folder, mounted the button in and…

Tacky, but all is hidden! ;)

Update, right, here are some photo’s of the install:

Looks good!

Lit up

The Radio Faceplate installed.

Posted by: willtblog | February 10, 2011

Update #14 The Radio Faceplate Arrived + Removed Stock Speakers

Faceplate

So to my surprise, the Radio Faceplate arrived today (Not sure if thats the correct name…)

Packaging

The Faceplate and instruction sheet

The faceplate is cheap plastic, but matched the interior plastic pretty well. The ~$20 NZD pricetag was a little excessive I thought, but oh well.

To my dismay, the way that it clips into the center console was not very good. I don’t see how you would get it off without breaking something. This was pretty much the only dissapointment of the job, but made my life hell.

Ive got to figure out another way to fit the faceplate around my radio… So much for what I thought would be a quick 5 min job…

Anyway, that aside, I decided to pull out my interior console to play around with some ideas. I ended up soldering the radio harness onto the OEM cables, removing the plastic connectors.

The crazy wire-ing behind my console.. Needs sorting out..

Tray. Just incase I drop the soldering iron or a dab of solder falls. Dont want a hole in my carpet!

Job Done.

Anyway, with that done, I need to think of a material that I can put in place of the cup holder. This will be where I mount the two buttons, one for engine start, and the other to controll the LEDs at the fron of the car.

Speakers

As I am planning to get some new speakers, I also took the passenger side door off to have a look at the tweeter and speaker. Turns out, there’s no wounder that there screwed… They are the origional speakers from 1997 – and they look like they’ve been owned…

OMG!

Nokia Speaker and Blaupunkt Tweeter

 

Posted by: willtblog | February 9, 2011

Update #13 Replaced the Ignition Switch

A while ago my ignition barrel gave in. When starting the car I had to manually switch back the key to stop the starter motor burning out.

I bought a new Ignition Switch from the Audi Stealership for $88 NZD and had to install it myself (Theres no way that I’m paying for labour!)

All I had to do was take the steering wheel off, and the plastic covers behind it. Then your left with this:

Underneath the steering wheel, Faulty Ignition Switch Removed

The picture above shows the ignition switch removed.. To remove it, all you need to do is pull the purple/black connector out of it. Then undo the screws and pull the ignition switch out of the barrel.

Old (Left), New (Right)

Old (Left), New (Right)

I also changed the oil and filter :)

Next up, Push to Start button, and LED Lights.

Posted by: willtblog | January 31, 2011

Future Plans!

Its been a while since my last update, But I am still loving the car!

I have had one problem with it so far, and my W.O.F checkup is due in a few days (NZ Equivilant of UK’s MOT). The Ignition Switch has broken, making the car a PITA to start :( After a few hours research on the web, it seems that Audi have recalled the specific part, so I am ringing the Audi Dealer up tomorrow to get this sorted. (If they wont do it, its not too much of a job anyway (Hourish + $100NZD)

Due to this Inition Swith fail, my battery has been taking a hammering, the electrics dont fully switch off when the key is removed, and I have come to the car once, to find that it wouldnt start.

I have not posted about the subwoofers I installed into the car. They are destructive! I bought 2x 12″ Apline subs and an amp that runs them 300Watts each. I have recently taken these out tempareally, due to the Ignition Switch.
The amp wasent too hard to install, I routed the power through the ECU box and into the car to avoid making another hole in the firewall.

Anyway, A few things that I plan to do;

  1. Add always on LEDs to the front of the car, with a switch.
  2. Add a Push to Start Engine button (For the fun of it!)
  3. Add a USB Female Mount inside the glove box (For the Alpine IDA-305S’ Input)
  4. Insert new set of speakers as the current stock ones have blown.

Shouldnt be too hard!

Pics:

Alpine IDA-305s in my Audi A4 1.8T 1997 B5

 

Alpine IDA-305s - Not got the plastic surround yet

Now for the Engine Start Button. This will go where the absolutely useless cup holders are. I will also mount the switch for the always on LEDs here.

Audi A4 Interior

The cup holders next to the handbrake will be the home of the start engine button.

I decided to add an Index too:

Update #12: Newz

Update #11: General Update

Update #10: Central Unit Removal + Fiber Glassing

Update #9: Paint + Cutting

Update #8: FiberGlass Pt3

Update #7: Fiber Glass Pt2

Update #6: Fiber Glass

Update #5: Mold

Update #4: CarPC Parts

Update #3: A/C Mould

Update #2: Air-Con Unit Disassembly

Update #1: Out With the Center Console!


Fix #1: Dashboard Lights


Mod #1: Audi Logo Chrome

Mod #2: DIY Radio Removal Key

Info: AU-650 XR-7V401 Stereo

Posted by: willtblog | July 26, 2010

Update #12: Newz

Well.

I gave up with all the computer stuff. After realising that it would cost me too much money.

I bought the Alpine iDA-X305S for $450 which works great with my iPhone.

Posted by: willtblog | April 15, 2010

Update #11: General Update

So, Its been a few days and ive not posted because ive not, really, progressed with anything.

My screen arrived yesterday. But to my dissapointment, it was not the correct one. It was the same screen and everything, WITHOUT the touch sensitive funtionality. So im now selling on TradeMe to get my money back, and so I can buy the correct one. Arrhghgg!

The fiberglass on the main frame is now complete and functional in the car.

Blue!

Its works, what can I say.

Posted by: willtblog | April 13, 2010

Update #10: Central Unit Removal + Fiber Glassing

A while ago when I took everything out to fix, I noticed that parts of the fram had been cracked, badly. Me being me, took the thing out and is now fiber glassing it back together.

Left side, bad.

Right side, Really bad.

After undoing the four screws (Not that I needed too, they were already loose due to all the cracks) I pulled the frame out, which exposed some wires that go to the buttons.

Free!

Wires

Wires everywhere! Good job I took these photos to figure out where everything goes back lol.

So, Finally, The main frame, and the damage.

The frame

Damage on the right side

Damage on the left side.

After examining the damage, I roughened up the plastic so the fiber glass will stick to it, and set up ready.

Set up

Done side one

Added a little epoxy resin stuff on the less damaged side.

Older Posts »

Categories

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.